It’s a known fact that fashion is cyclical, and if you hang on to something long enough, it will eventually become fashionable again. This is what the Italian brand is Navy blue became known for. While it was founded in 1977, the brand’s philosophy is largely associated with the A2K time.
For its spring 2023 collection, Blumarine continues to borrow from the 2000s but inserts a more imperfect and utilitarian touch. Floral mini skirts and lacy crop tops are swapped for ubiquitous clothing cargoesflared denim flares and rich religious iconography.
Creative Director Nicola Brognano said vogue last season that “[his] Blumarine is dirtier, bitchy, sexier,” and this collection is certainly proof of that. Models walked the catwalk in dangerously acid-wash low-rise jeans paired with sheer, form-fitting tops corsets and even cowl-neck tops in shredded denim revealing the bare flesh underneath. There were unmistakable similarities to the looks made famous by Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie from “The Simple Life” era, as well as Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears’ famous matching denim outfit with a certain ex-boyfriend.
Of course, the collection also includes a plethora of more feminine looks that stay true to Blumarine’s signature aesthetic, but with a slightly messy twist. The models floated in elegant layered silk dresses that had shreds of ribbons trailing behind. It was almost as if those scraps of fabric had been ripped from the dress, imbuing the otherwise feminine look with a slightly grungy undertone.
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Its emblematic rosebuds are again very present but, this season, Blumarine abandons its well-known butterfly motif in favor of a Christian cross; the symbol is plastered all over denim, made into embellishments or worn as a skimpy top itself – certainly a blasphemous choice that would make any devout Christian gasp or at least avert their eyes.
Brognano continues to push the boundaries by expanding Blumarine’s conventional female audience into menswear as well. A male model wore studded denim jeans paired with a cropped tank top splashed with Blumarine’s logo on the chest. The unisex pieces successfully breaking down gender barriers.
Overall, the collection pays homage to the kitsch and flashy glamor of the year 2000, but with a rougher edge. We are immediately transported to high school by a collection full of pieces we wish we could have worn.
Check out all the looks from Blumarine’s Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.